There was this dream about a journey

Author: Emil Skartveit

Once there was this dream about traveling along the Norwegian coastline by boat. My parents did it several times. They have made their final journey now. For my father, it was a rather existential feeling. Experiencing the coast this way, while at the same time being in motion; observing and absorbing, not knowing what the weather would be like. Just being. Mother was by his side, probably sharing much of his experience; however, my father was the one who was really on a journey. Both physically and spiritually. 

For many years, I carried the same dream. After living along the Norwegian coast at places such as Langesund in the east, Stord in the West, and Vadsø in the far northeast, the dream turned into a strong desire to experience this journey just as my parents had.

Then, finally, on the 1st of January this year, it was my turn. An extraordinarily good solo traveler offer from Havila Voyages – which, for a long time, I thought to be too good to be true – and a new, exciting ship promising high-quality food (that’s important), made the choice easy to make.

I ended up choosing the Junior Suite on deck seven, with all-inclusive.

Good luck with the weather!

After my departure from Halden (in the east) at 6:00 on New Year’s Day and flying from Oslo a little later in the morning, I excitedly found my way to the quay in Bergen, way too early. “But those who wait for something good…”, and all that. To see the ship gliding towards the shore was beautiful. Then, satisfied guests poured out of the Havila Capella, while new, eager guests waited to occupy their cabins, ready to fulfill their dreams. Some of us were experienced travelers, but perhaps new to the ship. Some of us knew the coast well but had never traveled this way before. Many were new to both. 

Wintertime. What about the weather? What about the northern lights? An acquaintance from Hammerfest shook his head slightly as he wished me luck on my trip. During my years in Vadstø, I experienced many storms. I’ve been thrown out of my bed and across the deck as the wind casts reached hurricane levels above eastern Finnmark.  And I have vomited, of course. So bravely, I decided to take what I was given. Just like it is in life in general. You don’t choose your storms and good days. The same goes for a trip along the Norwegian coast. Especially in January. 

What should I do on board? Eat, drink, and chat? Yes, that too, but I would also spend my time writing. I am working on a historical project about The Salvation Army’s presence along the coast of Northern Norway. The weather, both storm and stillness, is much talked about. And tragedies, sunshine, delays… I would contemplate, I thought, and remember. Mother and Father. Their journeys. Not to mention my dear, introverted father’s joy for Lofoten, North Cape bathed in the midnight sun, and the mysterious coast of Finnmark.

A Man and his Palate

Throughout my entire journey, Tromsø and Honningsvåg were the only two ports at which I went ashore. I don’t like being seen as a tourist, so I tried to blend in with the locals. Nevertheless, as I was slowly walking, sightseeing, there was no way around it; everyone saw me as “one of today’s visitors”. So be it. A pleasant visit to one of Tromsø’s bookshops, in which I bought a gift for my wife, was also an encounter with the Northern Norwegian generosity. 

In Honningsvåg, the former chapel/meeting house, “Perleporten” (The Pearly Gates), now a cultural site, was added to the list of memorable events during the trip. It’s just wonderful when an old religious song stanza like “he shall open the pearl gate” becomes part of the popular vocabulary.

Still, there is no denying that for me, my time on board became the most important. The encounters with other people, the food, and the crew.

I hardly know where to start. Perhaps should I use a day as a frame?

Those of us living in suites had the option to eat breakfast in a separate, small restaurant which is also used for Fine Dining dinners.  This was probably the very highlight of my day; to be served breakfast by Johanne who, modestly and attentively present, took my orders, the chef greeting me gently at the door, and the other guests whom I got to know.

At first, in the hour between 8:00 and 9:00, I would usually sit by myself. Then, the others appeared one by one. On one end, you had the old fellow always ordering his two scrambled eggs and a cup of coffee, and on the other were those of us who liked taking our time exploring the breakfast menu. One morning, I sat there for the entire opening hours; three beautiful hours. And then it wasn’t long until lunch!

A man named Trond sat there with his wife, and later, the well-traveled couple, Esther and Stephen from Australia arrived, ready for a chat at the table. The Aussies, who have cruised all over the world, quickly rated their current trip as their best so far. 

Always a la carte. Choose as much as you like, but not too much. A wonderful menu that changes four times along the coast, but also includes options that continue throughout the whole round trip.  The experience was topped off by a generous beverage menu including both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options.   Great waiters. I must carefully admit that Sanja from Sweden was my favorite with her wonderful twinkle in her eye, tons of energy, and good at treating the guests. She “took over” the entire restaurant. But I liked the others too; some of them were a little more modest than others, and everyone was not equally present all the time. Nevertheless, a great experience.

We sat, we spoke, and we drank. For someone who enjoys going out to eat good food and drink, the trip was some experience. Close to 12 days this way? Oh boy, what a pleasure!

Two Fine Dining dinners were included in my Havila  Gold membership which I automatically got as I stayed in a suite. These could be extended to two extras at a small additional cost, which of course I did. A superb sommelier, Jon Andre, was very helpful in finding good wines to go with the food. He also served me five delicious dishes. 

As we were few people in the Fine Dining restaurant, we had plenty of time. Eating this kind of food in such a way is simply a foretaste of paradise. Gaute and Ørjan at the neighboring tables. Humor at its best. That, too, was an experience.

For the rest of my evenings, I had dinner in the main restaurant. Again, a la carte menus with starters, main courses, and desserts. The good point was that you could choose the amount yourself. One evening, I just had starters. Another night, just a main course. Except for once, everyone at my table finished off their food at every meal.

It was a joy not to have a buffet. You can’t help but eat your fill, so why not do it in a way that benefits both the man and his palate?

After dinner, I usually went to the bar on the top deck, for fellowship, conversations, and a drink. 

We belong together

Of course, a voyage is not just about food and people.

However, a journey like this will not be successful without good food and company. You see, we spend so many days on board… The route is a given as well as the scenic landscapes and the time frame; but what happens along the way is something we create together.

The kitchen and its chefs, who are working hard all day. All of those who are providing good service, both the visible and invisible ones. Those who need to know your name will quickly do so. Recognize you, smile at you, and greet you. They could be the crew at the reception desk on deck four, or the waiters on deck six. And you know that some are cleaning, while others are handeling the functions to operate the ship. We do not see everyone – we do not get to know everyone – but we do appreciate them.

In a journey like this, we all belong together. We cannot do without respect, clearly defined tasks, and a high degree of professionalism. You notice the good chemistry among the employees. You notice the humor and the quality of the work they are doing. Fortunately, there are a few matured women in the crew who grew up on the coast. You don’t “mess around” with them, they will just answer your joke the same way, smiling. And they can be quite authoritative when needed. Lovely. 

Melancholy

In the last few days, my new friends and I felt a bit sad. Aware that we would soon go ashore. We talked about it, Mark from England, and I. We felt the same melancholy. We felt that the journey was coming to an end; the journey that we had dreamed about had eventually been realized completely and taken up residence within us. Now, it was almost over. 

Then, we arrived ashore. The luggage was ready. On the quay, stood several eager taxi drivers, hoping to bring tourists to the airport. 

My journey has been amazing. I have written this from the heart, and I now feel a deep sadness that it is all over.