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    Travel letter:

    Family Reunion along
    the Norwegian Coast

    Our Story

    It had been five long years since we last visited our extended family in Norway, so when we had an opportunity to sign up for Havila Voyage’s Bergen-Kirkenes round-trip cruise in May, we did – with seven members of the family accompanying us along the way!

    Havila Voyages’ ships are well-designed for multi-generational families like ours. With ages ranging from 8 to 86, we wanted to take part in the many activities and programs offered that matched our ages and interests. A leisurely cruise, with plenty of time to personally connect again, was the perfect venue. And no one had to do the dishes, cooking, or organizing!

    Other benefits? Brand new, extraordinarily quiet and eco-friendly ships, comfortable rooms, excellent services, and delicious food with minimal food waste. In addition, Havila Voyages’ thirty-four ports of call made it easy for family members to join for shorter periods at locations convenient to their work and school schedules.

    Most of us had never seen Norway from the vantage of its coastline, which, we were told, if stretched out, would extend from Oslo to Rome, and encompass four different regions, each with their own distinct landscape, traditions, and cuisines.

    The Adventure Begins

    After departing from Bergen on a warm, sunny evening in early May, we met up with our granddaughter, 34, and her three sons, twins, 8 and an older brother, 10, at the tiny port in Torvik the following morning, and then sailed on to the lovely art deco city of Ålesund. The boys had never been on a cruise ship before, and within an hour, they had surveyed the entire vessel and thoroughly checked out their cabin.

    What impressed them? we asked.

    “The glass elevators in the middle of the ship,” replied the twins.” You can see everything! And the beds are so comfortable!”

    Young boys enjoys the ocean view from their cabin

    Morning at the cabin: Even children can enjoy a perfect view.

    Though all three boys are still in elementary school, their proficiency in English – which Norwegian children begin to study in 2nd grade – astonished us.

    Soon the boys went off with their mother for a Havila Voyage’s excursion: a guided hike up Sukkertoppen (Sugartop), a nearby mountain. Our 10-year-old great-grandson considered it the highlight of the day.

    “The mountain is really steep and 314 meters high – but we made it to the top with a great view,” he said proudly.

    After that adventure, no wonder the boys had big appetites when they returned. The children’s menu was a big hit.

    “Great burgers,” said one of the twins, grinning widely after finishing off his second burger of the day.

    “My favorite are those croissants you dip in the chocolate sauce,” added his brother. “Too bad we don’t have that kind of food at home.”

    Their older brother explained their appetites as he attacked a pizza bigger than his plate: “We are kids, so we have unlimited energy.”

    Their time on the ship was brief, however. School was still in session and their schoolteacher father returned them home the next day.

    A Multi-Generational Journey

    Our spirits lifted with the arrival of the boys’ grandparents, Hilde, 58, and Lars, 55. They had driven up from Oslo and remained with us for most of the journey. This was their first cruise on a Havila ship, which was quite different from their earlier experience, especially the food service.

    In Trondheim, Hilde recalled: “It was one of those giant ships with thousands of people and lots of buffets.”

    It did not take long for her to recognize the difference. “I don’t think I’ve ever had this much good food several days in a row. We are only on day two! And we’ll be here for 8 days,” she said, as she finished another delicious dessert.

    Lars agreed. “I’m impressed with the ever-changing menu reflecting the four regions of coastal Norway that we pass by on our trip up to Kirkenes,” he added. “Everything is fresh. Especially the fish!”

    Great-Grandpa Joel, the titular head of our multigenerational family, nodded in agreement. “One of the things I appreciate with these meals is not just the taste. It’s the variety, and also the way they present it."

    Exploring the Coast

    As we continued north, the coastal landscape changed, often dramatically. At the start, low-lying mountains and small coastal towns and farms with white houses and red barns (a tradition still visible throughout the U. S’s upper Midwest – where Scandinavian immigrants settled in the 19th century), dotted the landscape, along with flocks and flocks of sheep. We also passed many fjords, including the tiny Trollfjord and the UNESCO-protected Geirangerfjord.

    Further on, after passing majestic snow-topped mountains and the towering cliffs of the Lofoten Islands filled with seabirds, we arrived in Tromso, where our grandson, Daniel, 32, joined us. A professional photographer and budding filmmaker, he was in the middle of a new project and needed to work while on board. He was relieved to find plenty of quiet spaces on several decks, replete with outlets and Wi-Fi. He also quickly noticed the food since, during his many stays in the U.S., he worked in several restaurants.

    The Northernmost Point

    As we continued toward Kirkenes, our final northern destination (and only 8 kilometers from the Russian border), my husband, Joel, and I took an excursion to North Cape, a broad plateau reaching out into the Arctic, with a 307m (1007 ft) cliff that is considered the northernmost point in Europe that can be reached by car. The panoramic view of sky and sea was breathtaking… unforgettable.

    Leigh at the North Cape

    The iconic globe at the North Cape.

    North Cape

    The North Cape.

    Onboard, beside all the excursions, the Havila team alerted us whenever we approached something of interest or an event, as when we crossed the Arctic Circle (featuring a ceremony involving a strange elf and ice cubes) and provided daily information sessions about future trips and history of each area we visited.

    We also often explored port towns to sightsee and shop whenever the Havila Castor docked to drop off or pick up passengers and cargo.

    Ceremony by the Arctic Circle

    Here I am being baptized by the Norse god "Njord".

    From the left: Hilde, 58, Daniel, 31, Leigh, 83, Joel, 86, and Lars, 55. Photo: Olav Breen

    Family Bonding

    Our family shared every meal together at our reserved dining table and made use of the gyms, saunas, and jacuzzi. Some of us awakened in the middle of the night to witness the midnight sun, others read and basked in the afternoon sun when it appeared. There were plenty of opportunities for personal one-on-one talks as well – the kind that don't usually happen during phone or internet calls – creating deeper, lasting connections that we know will continue for years to come.

    The Ending

    Toward the end of our journey, we decided to reserve a table at the Havila Castor’s exclusive Hildring Fine Restaurant that offers two five-course gourmet menus during a sail. The restaurant is smaller and separate from the main dining room with ceiling-to-floor windows, allowing us a spectacular view of the coastline while enjoying one heavenly fish dish after another.

    Hildring Fine Dining restaurant

    The Hildring Fine Dining restaurant.

    “This is the best cod I’ve ever had,” Daniel said at one point in the feast, “so I choose to eat it with a spoon because the texture is like butter.”

    We were still laughing at his comment when we heard an excited shout from a nearby table. “Look! Whales!”

    Sure enough, a pod of minke whales bobbed their heads out of the water, spouting gleefully, as if they were putting on a show just for us. It was the only time we saw them on the entire trip. It was a magic moment: the finishing touch to our memorable multi-generational family reunion. 



    Thank you, Havila Voyages!