Nestled by the sea, just a stone's throw away from the Langenes Church in Øksnes in the Nordland county, lies a cemetery where women's names reign supreme on the gravestones. While there are a few men's names, they are rarer and more recent. This is not unique to this village, as one will find similar scenarios in most coastal villages across Northern Norway and the West Coast. Yet, this is where we pause; at a simple burial cross, inscribed with the name Anna Serina Olsdatter, born in 1827, died in 1917. Anna was not a woman of status or riches, nor did she possess any exceptional artistic talents. However, she was strong, both physically and mentally. Furthermore, she was tremendously important. In fact, she was so important that without her, the coast of Norway would not have been livable during the pre-industrial era. Of course, this significance did not only occur to Anna, but to all the coastal women who kept the farms and communities going while their spouses, sons, and brothers risked their lives at sea to keep their families alive. Even the strongest, most skilled, and bravest fishermen – perhaps especially the bravest – constantly succumbed to the forces of nature. The Industrial Revolution came late to Norway, and until steamships – and especially the ones on the coastal express route – made their entrance in the late 1800s and early 1900s, life was particularly fragile.

History books are filled with men's names along with their influence in business, culture, and politics. The women stood in the background, well aware that without them, society would not function. After all, they were the ones who took care of children, the elderly, the farm, the animals, and the household. However, the mental burdens on the coastal women was just as substantial, if not greater, than the physical ones. Imagine never knowing if your loved ones would return from work or if your children would survive illnesses or accidents at sea. Such was the reality for Norwegian coastal women, and such was the reality for the coastal icon, Anna at Vinje, whom this story is about. We could not have told it if it was not for Johannes Rørtveit from Øksnes, who felt compelled to write a book about Anna – his own great-great-grandmother – based on first-hand accounts. The book, entitled "Anna on Vinje," is part of a series, "The People on Vinje," which illustrates life in the small village of Øksnes from 1824 to 1903. All the quotes in the following paragraphs are from the book about Anna at Vinje.

Childhood

Anna was only three years old when her father perished at sea, leaving the family without means of support. Anna's mother had no choice but to send Anna’s two younger sisters to foster care with others. Only Anna was allowed to stay with her mother, and the two of them went to live with relatives and friends in the fishing village of Vinje.

Despite the sorrow of losing her father, it was not long before Anna began relishing her new life. Vinje, bathed in the spring and summer sun, was a delightful playground for young explorers with new playmates around every corner.

Anna's childhood and adolescence were good, and in her first year at Vinje, her mother met a kind man named Andreas. Anna's mother took it upon herself to provide Andreas with the necessary clothing and equipment for the upcoming Lofoten fishery season in February/March. She carded wool and spun yarn, wove and knitted, taking on a responsibility that went beyond mere "friendly care."

The Lofoten Fishery

Regardless of the reliability of the cod and the great prosperity of the lucrative cod fishery, fishing with nets, lines, and hooks from an open rowboat was anything but easy. Whether it was an eight-oared "åttring" rowed by four people or a ten-meter-long "fembøring" with six compartments and as many men, these sturdy wooden boats could still take on water over the sides, especially if they were overloaded with fish, making them sit low in the water. This was a risk too many fishermen were willing to take because the more fish they caught, the higher their income, and leaving some of the catch behind was like throwing money into the sea. However, if a storm were to blow up, it did not matter how heavily loaded the boat was, as it could still capsize or be smashed into pieces by the violent waves. The only hope of survival was to travel in a group. If one boat encountered trouble, the crew could be saved by another. Unfortunately, even that hope was worth little when the water temperature hit just below the freezing point.

Andreas survived the winter fishing that year too. A couple of months after the cod had hurried past the outer side of Vesterålen, all the residents of Vinje and the neighbouring villages, Jarbakken and Ramsvika, went to Øksnes Church, where he and Anna's mother were married and were declared proper spouses. 

"What Anna remembered most from the event was the return trip when the three eight-oared boats with the entire bridal party raced to see who would arrive first at Vinje, where all the neighbors were invited to the wedding feast".

Next, followed an unusually carefree decade with stable, good fishing and when the fishing was good, most other things turned out to be good too. Anna’s life was enriched with three half-siblings to love, and she even had a good friend, Oline, with whom she shared all joys and sorrows. Oline was a couple of years older than her, so while Anna went through preparations for her upcoming Christian confirmation ceremony in 1841, Oline served at Sunderøya, a large fishing village and trading post. She had already been working there for two full winters when she and Anna headed down to the loft of a big boat house near the farm during the Easter of 1841. This is where the fishermen kept all their gear and other equipment when they were not in use. Here, Anna and Oline found peace and quiet from all the adults and nagging kids at the house, and it was here that Oline made a bleak confession: an older man at her workplace, who had been making inappropriate approaches towards her throughout the winter, had finally managed to overpower her. The assault was brutal and impossible for the young girl to prevent. 

"Oline's desperate and tearful voice was still stuck in Anna's head as she walked away from the boathouse. 'If I'm pregnant, I'll go to sea.'"

One day in early May of the same year, Anna's best friend was found drowned on the outer side of Sunderøya, where the open sea rolled in against the steep rocks.

Work

After Anna had been confirmed at church, she was sent to Tinden, a fishing village and trading post, to earn a living as a housemaid there. Before she left, her mother confessed to her that ever since they moved to Vinje, she had felt an intense longing for Anna's two younger sisters, Bergitte and Oline. She blamed herself and felt ashamed for sending them away to others. By then, Anna had been offered a job at Tinden, a fishing village and trading post nearby, and her mother and Andreas decided to make room for her two younger sisters. Anna understood her mother's despair, and the conversation led her to make a decision about her own life: if she ever married and started a family, she would never give up a child or split up a group of siblings. 

A few days later, two half-grown sisters were helped ashore from an eight-oared boat in the shallows at Vinje. Shortly afterward, Andreas took Anna to her new job in Tinden.

Falling in love

Just before Christmas in 1845, Anna received word that her mother was not feeling well, so she was given a ride home to Vinje on a six-oared boat that had been rowing on assignment for Tinden the past few weeks. On board, she found two strong men in their twenties. Anna sat at the back of the boat. She felt chilly, so she grabbed a pair of oars and started rowing with the others. Sitting opposite her was Peder Mikal Knutsen, a handsome, tall and powerful man with thick, blond hair and a steady gaze. 

The very same evening, after Peder and his coworker had taken Anna back to Tinden, Peder said something that made the young woman blush: "We must meet again, for you are truly the best woman I have ever rowed a boat with." Three years later, Anne and Peder were wed.

New Life at Vinje

The same year that Anna and Peder were married in Øksnes Church, Peder was granted the right to farm Nedrejordet at Vinje, where Anna had grown up. Her mother and Andreas had moved out of the house, but one of Anna’s sisters, Oline, stayed behind to help the young couple to get settled on the farm until she found work elsewhere. The house was neither large nor grand, but at least it was a home with all the necessary facilities. 

In the first year as farm owners, it was important for Anne and Peder to ensure that they had enough food for the animals to avoid shortage in the spring. This work was too much for Anna and Oline to handle alone, so they hired a farmhand to help them gather grass which was then dried in the fields and stored for later use. Meanwhile, Peder was busy repairing the barn at the farm alongside renovating the boathouse and shed by the sea to make enough space for the new eight-oared boat he had ordered. After all, the boat would ensure the family's future livelihood as Peder was, of course, a fisherman and also a skilled skipper.

Anna maintained strict discipline and order at the house by regularly cleaning both the home and everything related to daily tasks. She frequently scrubbed the floors with a mixture of sand and homemade soap made from animal fat. Small laundry was performed with a washboard in a wash tub, while larger cleaning jobs were done in the smokehouse, where the clothes were boiled in a large iron pot. Afterwards, the clothes were washed and rinsed in smaller tubs or in a water hole built in the stream near the house. The washing of carpets or boat rugs had to be handled by at least two people as the wet garments were extremely heavy. This work took several days. 

Midwifery

While living at Tinden, Anna had assisted her landlady with childbirths several times, for which she had a natural talent. After moving back to Vinje, she continued helping out  with several births. The old midwife in the village noticed the young woman's inherent calmness and care and began bringing Anna along as help with birth delivery. It did not take long before Anna became known as "the new midwife of the village" and gained a rare sort of authority and trust among the inhabitants. Not only was she called upon in connection with births, but also with other types of troubles, both among people and animals, that required humane care.

Starting a Family

Anna and Peder's first child, Ole Martinus Kristian, was born in 1849. "It's a boy and he will be named Ole after my father", Anna said. Peder took the newborn in his arms and looked at his son as he said: 'You will probably become a skilled fisherman when you grow up, for you have such big, clear eyes". 

One year later, a sister, Jokumina Oline, was born. The little girl seemed weak, but luckily, she quickly grew stronger. However, Ole, who had seemed so robust at birth, became ill with a whooping cough at the age of two. While Anna's sister took care of the youngest daughter to protect her from getting infected, Anna stayed with her son day and night. Later on, when Peder – who had been fishing with his boat crew for several days – returned home to Vinje, he found his wife so exhausted that he took her place in the kitchen chamber next to their son's sickbed, so Anna could get some rest.

"The resolute and resourceful skipper was confronted with a situation that he found difficult to manage at his son's sickbed. When the coughing fits came, and the boy struggled to breathe, he could not help but think that for his part, it would have been easier to weather a storm at sea in battle with the forces of nature than to be a powerless bystander in his son's battle for life".

Eventually, the strength of the little boy gave out, and Anna and Peder lost their firstborn. One week later, Peder headed back to work.

The Ten Children

One year after the death of her son, Anna gave birth to another boy, Ole Johan, and life became a little more worth living. 

“By giving the boy the name Ole, Anna wanted to name her first-born child again and give him all the love she felt she didn't have time to give to Ole Martinus while he lived". 

After that, the children continued to arrive "in quick succession," and soon there were ten people living in the small house: a mother, a father, four sons, three daughters, and an aunt. A few years later, in 1867, Anna and Peder were to be blessed with twin boys.

"The days turned into weeks, the weeks into months and years. The small house at Vinje became a home with little space but a big heart. The villagers sought out Anna for help and advice, while Peder pursued his work at sea with two five-oared crews”.

The children were accustomed to hard work from a young age. The girls tended to household chores and the care of their younger siblings, while the boys were honed in the art of fishing. The four eldest boys longed to shadow their father from dawn until dusk, jockeying to outdo one another in imitating his work with the workers at the boathouse. They yearned to venture out to sea and cast their nets, but Anna endeavoured to delay their foray into the unpredictable waters for as long as she could. Nevertheless, each member of the family had to contribute to their collective survival, for life's bounty did not come without diligence. 

Ole Johan, the oldest son, displayed a precocious talent for fishing, mastering his trade at a tender 12 years of age. His father had outfitted him with his very own boat, its sail a square rig, ideal for improving his skills. The boat could be manned by two or three men and was not only a vessel for practice but also one of the fastest in the boathouse.

"The November day was cold and rainy as Ole Johan and two other boys from nearby farms readied themselves for setting sail to Tinden to retrieve salted and dried fish. Anna allowed them to go despite the limited daylight hours of November, the weather promised good fortune with favourable westerly winds. By departing early in the morning, the trio hoped to return before nightfall”.

A few days later, boat was found on the beach at Sunderøya, capsized, with the keel in the air.

An unfortunate event rarely comes alone

The next devastating news arrived with a small boat at Vinje on the 23rd of December three years later. No one could say for certain how it happened, but it was assumed that the boat had been heavily loaded with herring and taken in water, or hit rocks and sunk. Peder was lost at sea, along with one of Anna's half-brothers and the husband of her half-sister.

Following Peder's death, Anna and all her semi-grown children persevered with the farm and the fishery business. At the age of 15, the eldest son, Andreas, became the skipper of his father's five-oared boat. Naturally, when the winter fishing commenced on the outskirts of Vesterålen and later in Lofoten, he was there. Eventually, his younger brothers also became accomplished fishermen. 

The life of a fisherman was often brief, and despite Anna's constant plea to her sons to be cautious at sea and not take unnecessary risks, they all met the same fate as their father. One by one, the young men vanished at sea.

When Anna, at the age of 75, eventually left Vinje to live with her daughter, Oline Martine Stefana Bergitte (b. 1861) in Nyksund, she had outlived a husband and six sons. Only one living son remained; Peder Richard Christopher (b. 1867). 

Anna Serine Olsdatter, or "Anna at Vinje," as people fondly called her, passed away in Nyksund on October 11, 1917. She was laid to rest at Husjord Cemetery near Langenes Church. In a way, her passing marked the end of an era; the five-oared boats and other open fishing boats had largely outplayed their role, with steamships taking over more and more of the fishery and operations at sea. Notably, the coastal express, established in 1893, ensured a resurgence of business and society along the coast. The many local motorboats that sprouted to serve the ships on the coastal express also ensured a much safer transport of both people and cargo than the open rowboats had done. The era of large and catastrophic accidents had come to an end.

Let us finish this story with an excerpt from a letter written by Anna's son, Peder Vinje, reproduced in author Rørtveit's book, Anna at Vinje: 

"Of all the joyful memories I have, it is my dear mother's memory that is the most precious and that no one can take away from me. I know that my mother passed away blissfully. Sorrow taught us, as a family, to stay together and love each other. (...) You may use whichever parts you like of what I have written, but above all, I implore you to write extensively about my mother. For there can never be enough said about her”.

Text: Havila Voyages/Josefine Spiro

"It's a dog's life lying here salting herring without getting rid of it," said Richard With. District doctor Jakob Georg Thode nodded, but before he could reply, With continued, "There must be a better way; instead of zigzagging with jekter (traditional Norwegian boats), we need steamships for towing and transporting herring." "Indeed, but the funds, With! How will they be raised?" 

"People need to unite to purchase a steamship, but to persuade them, I require assistance. And you can provide that, doctor!"

 "I'll do my utmost, but first, consult William Hals in Stokmarknes and lawyer Lumholtz too; he might be invaluable when transacting. If we establish a joint-stock company, his presence on the board could be beneficial." 

Such were the words exchanged when Richard With and district doctor Thode met aboard a salting vessel in Sildpollen in the Eidsfjord in the autumn of 1880. The Eidsfjord was one of the best herring fjords in the north of Norway, and that season, the catch surpassed all expectations. "When the fjord was bustling, it resembled the most prominent port cities," an account from that time describes. Small and large steamships ventured into the Eidsfjord to load herring. Jekter and jakter (traditional sailboats) also played their part in transportation, and the steamships were particularly busy. Yet, as Richard With observed – the herring accumulated.

(The paragraphs above are excerpts from the book “På nordnorsk kjøl – Vesteraalens Dampskibsselskab gjennom 75 år, authored by Reidar Stavseth)

The well-being of the hardworking fishermen and ship crews in the Eidsfjord was under threat. The situation worsened to such an extent that when a typhus outbreak occurred, district doctor Jakob Thode had to establish a field hospital on Sildepollen – an island in the Eidsfjord and the primary docking area for fish and herring intended for salting.

This particular tale – of the moment Richard With had a profound realization during an Eidsfjord visit one autumn day in 1880 – would become pivotal for Norway initiating a coastal express route 13 years later.

 "You see, The funding for the first coastal voyage express ship primarily originated from the transport of herring from Eidsfjorden, supplemented by other cargo and eventually mail," Rydheim explains.

But to resume our story – the herring continued to accumulate in Sildpollen...

"Richard With's concept was to establish a steamship company, which would feature a ship capable of loading herring and also towing both jakter and jekter for swifter transit to Bergen. District doctor Thode was so impressed that he advised With to discuss it with merchant William Hals in Stokmarknes, which he did," says Rydheim. (

A few months later, just after New Year in 1881, Richard With personally rowed around the islands of Vesterålen and Lofoten promoting a share offer of a hundred Norwegian kroner. He collected 17,500 NOK. It wasn't sufficient for the vessel he had envisaged; the steamship "Arendal", which had regularly operated in Lofoten and boasted a substantial cargo capacity for its time. It was then moored in Ålesund, which With had personally inspected. 

"He was short by 2,500 NOK for the purchase, so he telegraphed merchant William Hals and lawyer Lumholtz in Stokmarknes," Rydheim continues. The duo had a trusted contact, Olaus Lockert, whom they simply approached for support. He consented to loan Richard With 10,000 NOK – securing the deal with nothing more than a standard receipt.

"Captain Richard With procured the DS 'Arendal' and had it navigated to Vesterålen in the summer of 1881. Then, on 10 November that year, the Vesteraalens Steamship Company (VDS) was formally established and initiated its board. Richard With was officially appointed on 14 January 1882," Rydheim recounts. 

The DS "Arendal" was rechristened "Vesteraalen". Following a brief shipyard stay, it began its service between the Eidsfjord and Bergen, engaging in herring transport and towing traditional sailboats. Gradually, the route extended to the island of Senja, near Tromsø and operated throughout the year. 

"By 1884, Captain With had commissioned a new vessel, 'Lofoten', which commenced the same route. By that time, VDS owned two ships and began to rival both the Bergen Steamship Company and another prominent steamship company, Nordenfjeldske," details Rydheim.

Merely 12 years after the establishment of the new steamship company in Vesterålen, Richard With secured a tender for a coastal express route between Trondheim and Hammerfest in the summer and Trondheim to Tromsø in the winter. "This route was envisioned by steamship consultant August Kriegsmann Gran. He wanted the Trondheim to Svolvær transit to be completed in 34 hours, and captain Richard With comfortably achieved this," concludes Per Rydheim.

Read the story about "The Birth of the Coastal Express”

Over the 130 years of its existence, the Norwegian coastal express route has seen numerous expansions, encompassing ports, shipping companies, and vessels. Today, it's officially named Kystruten Bergen-Kirkenes (Coastal Route Bergen-Kirkenes) and is serviced by two shipping companies, with Havila Voyages as the most recent addition, boasting four modern, and sustainable ships.

Text: Havila Voyages/Josefine Spiro

Video of Sailing into the Eidsfjord!

In September 2023, Havila Voyages took eight detours into the Eidsfjord in Vesterålen. At this picturesque location, tourists and local history enthusiasts learned about the herring fisheries that once inspired Richard With to establish his own steamship company, leading to the inception of the first coastal express.

Check out the video!

It is the third day of Christmas in 1893. On the open bridge of the steamship DS Vesteraalen, the weathered figures wrapped in fur and leather stand silent, not exchanging a single word. The helm occasionally makes a dry, grinding sound that cuts through the heavy, rhythmic beats from the engine room. One of the men silently moves towards the compass house, which contains an unusually large compass, but otherwise, everything is calm on deck.

As the ship races southwards towards Rystraumen – an undersea stream outside Tromsø – the water is clear, and the lantern at Rystraumen glows faintly red through the snowfall. The Vesteraalen speeds past it at such a high speed that the midship wave breaks over the lighthouse headland.

However, as the ship passes Melangsdypet north of Senja, the swells from the sea enter the fjord. It is already night at this latitude in winter, and the only thing darker than the night itself this evening is the thick smoke swirling out of the ship’s smokestacks, hanging like a thick cloud above the port side of the ship.

"50 minutes. Starboard a bit. Straight ahead," a voice on the bridge says, but there is no light to be seen, and the dark sea ahead is unchanged. The situation appears incredibly dangerous as the ship seems to be sailing blindly. How can it?

The answer to this mystery lies in the wheelhouse, where a logbook written by pilot Anders Holte is situated. Over ten years earlier, Holte stood on the bridge of Captain Richard With's ship, logging the time and location of all course changes on the journey along the Norwegian coast. Although the work was done in daylight, it was revolutionary, and on one occasion, it enabled Holte to navigate the ship safely through a fog bank. He encouraged Holte to complete the work he had started, which made it possible for them to sail in darkness. By the autumn of 1883, Holte had completed his calculations for half the distance between Vesterålen to Bergen.

As the clock strikes ten, the gale intensifies into a storm, the ship straining and groaning under its force. The few lights dotting the coast along the ship's path are gradually extinguished.

At midnight, the electric lamps on board are switched off. Soon after, however, keen-eyed onlookers catch a glimpse of a piercing light cutting through the dense snow fog. Although the light appears only briefly, it soon reappears, its origin revealed as the lighthouse on Tyvholmen.

Suddenly, the ship's siren pierces the night, cutting through the snow fog, and there, directly ahead, two red lights emerge; the signal lanterns on the quay in Harstad. Then, Vesteraalen gracefully glides past the two lights, until a slight jolt signals its arrival at the quay.

The preceding account is a retelling of a travelogue published in the newspaper "Verdens Gang" in the end of December, 1893. It stands as one of the few, if not the sole, authentic portrayals of the inaugural winter of the coastal express. However, the narrative truly commences nearly half a year earlier, on the morning of July 2nd, when Richard With embarked on his initial coastal express journey from Trondheim to Hammerfest.

Richard Bernhard With, born on September 18, 1846, in Tromsø, was a reserved and tranquil individual who seldom felt the need to raise his voice in crowds. Indeed, he was a congenial man, grinning frequently. At least this is how Sten Magne Engen, the driving force, daily manager, and chairman of the board for the Hurtigrute Museum, describes the captain.  There is no reason to question his assumption, as few living people know more about the coastal route history than Engen. Consequently, he was the first person we approached in our search for source material for this story. We also spoke with Per Rydheim from Sortland in the North, who has a remarkable passion for boats and began delving into this crucial chapter of Norwegian history during his youth. Our resource has been thorough as well, involving hours of reading, to guarantee that we could describe what transpired before, during, and after Richard With's momentous inaugural coastal express voyage 130 years ago, in this pivotal anniversary year of 2023.

«He was musically inclined as well, and enjoyed playing the guitar”, Sten Magne says, as we are having lunch at the Hurtigrute Museum. “This passion for music was shared by his entire family. His daughter, Nanna With, became a piano teacher, and so did her niece, Anna. So when Richard established the coastal route express, it was only natural that musical instruments should be included on the ship!”.

This knowledge motivated Sten Magne to embark on a mission to find a piano just like the one that Richard With installed in the music salon of DS Vesteraalen in 1893, and it took him more than two decades to do so. However, that story must wait for another time. Let us proceed in the correct order...

The Need. In the 1880s, the ships that carried both mail and passengers along the Trondheim-Svolvær route required four to five days for their journey from start to finish, provided that they were not waylaid by delay – a predicament all too common and frequently prolonged. This was hardly unexpected, for the markers on the sea path were inadequate, the maps insufficient, and the lighthouse illumination meagre at best. Nightfall compelled the ships to anchor, and poor visibility thwarted any attempt to navigate. Yet, even as these tribulations plagued the route, the urgency for a swift and dependable transport of mail and passengers became ever more acute.

Captain With was aware of the impact that a reduction in sailing time from Bergen to Tromsø would have on his company, the Vesteraalens Dampskipsselskap (VDS). This was perhaps why, during a visit to the shipyard in Aker where the new D/S Vesteraalen was under construction, he jested that “this vessel must be treated with extra care, as it shall serve as a coastal express”.

There were no bids. The preeminent steamship companies, NFDS and BDS, shrank from navigating by night. Perhaps they lacked the hard-earned knowledge amassed by Captain With and his cohorts at VDS, inscribed in a book housed in the wheelhouse of the DS Vesteraalen. When the steamship budget was presented to the Parliament in 1892, the Department of the Interior had no recourse but to declare the coastal express route plan to be at a standstill. However, steamship consultant Gran refused to concede defeat, and after traveling through the northern reaches of Norway, where he sought out the counsel of business magnates and ultimately that of Captain With, a revised solution began to emerge. The new coastal express plan, presumably led by Captain With himself, entailed weekly voyages and a travel time of 34 hours between Trondheim and Svolvær, as opposed to the earlier 48.

On September 21, 1892, the Department of the Interior once more issued a request for tender (RTF) for a coastal express route. This time, the call was not exclusive to companies already holding contracts with the government, but was extended to include their competitors, among them, Vesteraalske (VDS). Richard With was prepared, and he was also the only one to submit a bid. VDS offered to take on the contract for a government and postal subsidy of 75,000 NOK, and a contract period of three years. VDS was eventually awarded the contract for a reduced amount of 70,000 NOK.

On January 20, 1893, the Department declared that the proposed arrangement would undoubtedly contribute to significant material development in the north. The fishing industry was to enjoy extra benefits from faster transport between production and delivery sites. Indeed, the North was about to witness a new dawn.

To equip the DS Vesteraalen, originally a cargo ship, for the coastal express route, Captain Richard With envisioned installing several new passenger cabins, postal cabins, and state-of-the-art equipment. True to his word, these were promptly installed, and the first coastal express departure from Trondheim was scheduled for Sunday, July 2, 1893, at 8:30 in the morning. A new era had dawned, and the winds of change had blown into the north, bringing with them prosperity and development.

The First Coastal Express Voyage. Sixty joyful residents from the northern parts of Norway step aboard the DS Vesteraalen. The vessel, bedecked with fluttering flags and gleaming in pristine white, begins to glide away from the quay at Brattøra in Trondheim. These are no ordinary port-to-port passengers, but rather a select group of distinguished guests who have been specially invited to witness the momentous launch of the new coastal express route.

On the bridge, Captain Richard With stands tall, flanked by the seasoned navigators, Paul Hals and F.O. Hegge, and expert pilots, Hans Jensen and Lars Netland. In the engine room, F. Schulze and Ths. Larssen toil tirelessly to ensure the smooth running of the vessel. The postal service is also well-represented by the clerks Lange and Thurn.

The steamship stops at a total of nine ports of call between Trondheim and Hammerfest, and wherever it goes, the crew is greeted with great enthusiasm. Cannon salutes, horn music, and cheers fill the air, creating an atmosphere of celebration and joy. Flags flutter from painted masts on shore, adding to the festive atmosphere. In towns and trading posts, crowds gather along the docks, dressed in their finest attire, eager to welcome the vessel and its crew. 

Still, in most ports of call, the initial encounter with the coastal express is brief and hectic. Frequently, the expedition boats must manoeuvre alongside Vesteraalen in the open sea. While the vessel's engine slows down slightly, there is no time for stopping.

As the coastal express approaches Bodø on the afternoon of July 3rd, it is ahead of schedule by half an hour. The town is bustling with anticipation, eager to pay homage to the ship's officers. Several speeches are made, each one recognizing the captain and his crew. However, as the clock nears two o'clock, it is time for the guests to bid farewell. With the Lofoten Mountains waiting in the distance, Captain Richard With takes his place on the bridge, poised for the next leg of the journey.

For two days, the vessel navigates the treacherous waters, the crew ever-watchful for any dangers that might impede their progress. Finally, the captain signals his arrival in Tromsø with a resounding blast of the whistle, announcing the ship's arrival. The sun shines brightly, and the water is still, as the vessel gracefully glides into the harbor. Lively music fills the air, emanating from the deck of the ship, and the entire city of Tromsø is decked out in flags, celebrating the arrival of the first coastal express ship of its kind.

Captain With and his crew savour four hours in Tromsø before resuming their journey northwards. As the coastal express approaches the harbour of Hammerfest on Wednesday, July 5th, it anchors half an hour ahead of schedule to the sound of a resounding cannon salute echoing through the majestic mountains. The early hour does not deter the crowd, as the harbour is filled with people who have abandoned sleep in favour of witnessing this historic moment. For the next four hours, there is a steady stream of people boarding the vessel, eager to see the interior.

The guests are impressed by the «luxurious» amenities offered on the coastal express passenger ship. The representative journalist from the newspaper; Finnmarksposten, is particularly intrigued to observe that third-class passengers are not consigned to the cabinets on the intermediate deck, but rather treated to commodious cabins complete with fixed berths. The passengers also have access to their own kitchen, and the electric lighting in both the lounges and cabins augments the atmosphere of indulgence.

Exactly three days after its departure from Trondheim, Vesteraalen turns around, starting its southward journey. An accidental encounter in the Nærøysundet strait yields a historic moment, as the adventurer Fridtjof Nansen's storied polar ship, the "Fram," anchors there to stock up on provisions for its upcoming voyage to the North. Scores of onlookers gather to bid farewell to the ship and its crew, and they also glimpse Vesteraalen sailing gracefully northward through the strait. As she passes by, the coastal express renders a resounding salute to the Fram, punctuated by boisterous cheers, in a display of camaraderie between two vessels venturing forth on their respective odysseys.

Success. Richard With's first coastal express voyage was an unequivocal success. The tight schedule posed no challenge during the long summer nights. However, many sceptics wondered whether the voyage would be as smooth during the treacherous autumn and winter seasons. Some even believed that it would put the lives of everyone on board at risk. Fortunately, reality refuted all dire predictions.

Despite the harsh weather conditions that brought forth storms and darkness, Vesteraalen adhered to its route schedule with remarkable punctuality throughout the winter. The navigation system* that Richard With and Anders Holte had developed and refined during their years in the cargo route industry proved to be a crucial asset. It passed the test with flying colors, ensuring that the coastal express continued to operate with the same efficiency and reliability that it had demonstrated in the summer months.

130 Years of History

The fact that Norway's magnificent coastal route has been in operation for an impressive 130 years is somewhat difficult to grasp. Since the first express sailing in 1893, a multitude of companies have been involved, and at its peak, six different shipping companies shared the responsibility of serving the route. Over the years, the route has been extended several times, with the first coastal express ship, DS. Capella, setting sail from Bergen on October 5, 1898, and Kirkenes becoming part of the route in 1908. 

In 2006, when the company Hurtigruten ASA was established, the coastal express route received the official name “Kystruten Bergen – Kirkenes” after a tender from the Ministry of Transport. Havila Coastal Route is the tenth shipping company in line to serve it.

Over the years, the coastal route has had over 60 different ports of call, and today there are 34 ports. The route remains a critical mode of transportation for port-to-port travellers along Norway's coast, while it as also become a popular attraction among domestic and international tourists eager to experience the natural beauty of the Norwegian coast.

Text: Havila Voyages/Josefine Spiro

The Letter

It all began in 1998, when Sten Magne Engen, chairman of the Coastal Express Museum, received a letter from a passenger on a recent coastal express voyage. At that time, Engen was still captaining ships along the Norwegian coast while tirelessly devoting all his free time preparing for the permanent installation of the MS Finmarken, a coastal steam ship built in 1956 and recently donated to the museum.

Engen recalled that the letter writer did not speak much when on board ship, nor did he make any memorable impression – but the contents of his letter were astonishing indeed.

“The passenger inquired whether I knew about the existence of something called ‘Villa Finmarken’ in Beekbergen, in the southeast of Holland.  According to him, it was undoubtedly a section of the coastal steamer, the DS Finmarken, which was built back in 1912”.

Engen knew that the DS Finmarken was finally retired in 1956 when no longer capable of coping with the demanding operations along the extensive Norwegian coast. Her replacement was the “MS Finnmarken” – the very ship Engen was now  busy preparing to exhibit at the museum.  

After its retirement, the old steamer was purchased by the Young Christian Sailors’ Association (USFK) in Stavanger for use as a training vessel. Then, just three years later, it was sold for scrap in Rotterdam.

That was the last time anyone in Norway knew anything about the DS Finmarken – until the letter landed in Engen’s mailbox nearly four decades later.

“I was thrilled. I thought, at the very least, I had to procure a memento from the vessel”, Engen recollects.

Ended up at a riding centre

A year later, after overseeing the successful reopening of the Hurtigruten Museum, Engen finally had the opportunity to travel to the Netherlands to inspect the “Villa Finmarken” up close. This is where the story becomes truly fascinating.

It turned out the old steamship had not met its demise in the scrapyard after all. A dentist bought it and moved the entire 16m long, 5m tall section to Beekbergen, near the city of Apeldoorn. It is not known what the dentist planned to do with it or how much he had paid, but a few years later he sold the 49-tonne section to a horse-riding center that was planning to use the ship’s salon and cabin section for lodging and communal spaces for its pupils.

Then another Surprise

Upon arriving at the horse-riding center, Engen was astonished to learn that he could not only obtain a memento from the vessel but purchase the entire thing for 1.5 million Norwegian kroner (about € 147,900) However, there was just one big problem: how on earth would he get the MS Finmarken out of the forest and transport it to Norway and to the museum in Stokmarknes?

“There were 20-meter trees everywhere. I had to go to the Dutch authorities to obtain permission to cut out a passage so we could get the boat out – but the forest was protected, so I was not allowed”, Engen explains.

The process of obtaining permission to carve out a passage for the boat proved to be an arduous one. Despite numerous meetings and applications that eventually reached higher authorities in the Netherlands, it took three long years for the museum chairman to be granted permission to create a “road” through the forest.

“After the trees were felled, we laid down 160 thick steel plates to prevent machinery and vehicles from getting stuck”, Engen recalls.

“And then we had to navigate through a roundabout”, Engen recalls.

The turning radius in the roundabout was so tight that traffic signs were reversed to give the low-loader enough space, but it was completely futile. As a result, the enormous vehicle had to drive against the flow of traffic, with police cars and flashing lights both in from and behind. Fortunately, it was still nighttime and traffic was minimal.

“There, we were able to borrow the entire cruise boat terminal”, Engen says.  “I had a valuable contact in Amsterdam who also provided food and drinks for the celebration. We took the opportunity to extend invitations to all the sponsors and other involved parties to commemorate the occasion in the harbour”, says Engen, smiling.

A few days later, Nor-Cargo, a Norwegian sea cargo ship, picked up the Finmarken and delivered her to Bergen completely free of charge. Another shipping company, Nor-Cargo, brought it onto Stokmarknes, where it arrived in the dead-of-night. The following morning, the older steamer arrived at the Coastal Express Museum, where she stood alongside the ship that replaced her in 1956, the MS Finnmarken.

The Restoration

"The restoration of the old Finmarken's interior cost about ten million NOK and consumed several years of dedicated efforts," recountes Engen. He then delves into an anecdote about his visit to the Maritime Museum in Bergen, where he embarked on a mission to 3D-scan all the intricate woodcarvings that once adorned the smoking room of the Finmarken, as this interior has been showcased there ever since it was taken out of the boat.

"I acquired a powerful computer and a large milling machine weighing 1.2 tons from China.  With utmost precision, we milled out all the woodcarvings down to a half a millimetre. Furthermore, we enlisted the expertise of skilled woodcarvers to delicately chisel the patterns and illustrations. The resulting designs are captivating, portraying various themes such as war and the Viking age”, Engen explains.

The rest of the interior of Finmarken remains faithful to its 1912 origins, right down to the wallpaper.

"We attempted to locate the exact wallpaper that was once present in the 'Music/Ladies Lounge,' but to no avail. As a result, we contacted Lutz Walter, a specialist from Germany, who found the only European company capable of producing embossed wallpaper. However, before the wallpaper could be produced, it had to undergo a meticulous process of being drawn and coloured to perfection. Lutz persisted with the task and eventually succeeded after seven attempts in creating the desired result”, says Engen.

Whilst the carpet runners were crafted in Belgium, their exquisite designs hail from Norway. The chandeliers that adorn the “Music/Ladies Lounge”, on the other hand, are a product of the Czech Republic. As for the elegant furnishings, they are made in Norway, utilising the very same techniques that were employed back in 1912.

The Piano Hunt

Meanwhile, the Museum persisted in their search to find the ideal piano. Their objective was to acquire a piano that closely resembled the one that was originally present in the music and ladies' lounge during the ship's first voyage.

“Many of the older boats had musical instruments on board, " Engen explains. “The renowned 'Father of the Coastal Express,' Richard With, was musically inclined and played instruments himself. His daughter, Nanna With, followed in his footsteps and became a piano teacher. It is plausible that she performed right here in this lounge”.

The Coastal Express Museum possesses a photograph that depicts half of the original piano that was placed in the music and ladies' lounge aboard the DS Finmarken in 1912. After much research, the Museum concluded that the piano was likely manufactured by the "Brødrene Hals" brand.

“Our first acquisition was from 1911, and it was found at the residence of the customs chief at a place called Sandnessjøen”, says Sten Magne. 

On closer inspection, however, it turned out that a small detail on one corner of the musical instrument deviated slightly from the one in the picture. 

"That wouldn't do. We had been so meticulous with everything else so far; it had to be '1912' and not some fake," says the museum chairman. 

During the extensive search, a piano that had been aboard the old DS 'Richard With' emerged. The vessel had been operating along the Norwegian coast from 1909, but fortunately the piano was brought ashore in Tromsø, just two days before it was sunk during World War II. Additionally, the Museum Chairman acquired a piano from DS "Tordenskiold," an old boat from 1857.

“I gathered several pianos from Oslo, Trondheim, Kirkenes, and Southern Norway. However, an old Brødrene Hals piano unexpectedly surfaced in Stokmarknes, and it was the closest match to the original piano. The owner was relocating and did not wish to take it with him”, Sten Magne continues. 

“Detective work and high-level problem-solving have been integral to every accomplishment we have achieved”, says Engen, smiling. The extent of time he has dedicated to the Coastal Express Museum is so significant that he can scarcely grasp it. However, this project is the epitome of his life's work, and he firmly believes that every second he has spent pursuing it has been worth the effort in the end.

“It is crucial to preserve the history of the Norwegian coastal express history. Moreover, it is fun to make it happen”.

Tekst: Havila Voyages/Josefine Spiro

"The MS Finmarken was in service until 1993, thereafter lying idle in the municipality of Narvik for six months. In the summer of 1994, she was returned to us – a turn of events that pleasantly shocked us”.

Sten Magne Engen, chairman of the Coastal Express Museum, relates this story as he escorts us over the 800 square metres (8,600 sq. ft.) of original wooden decks of the MS Finnmarken. For an era spanning four decades, from 1956 to 1993, she faithfully sailed the Bergen - Kirkenes coastal route. Now, after a complete refurbishment and structural repairs, the ship stands on display at the museum.

"I lobbied hard to bring this boat here. Having served aboard, I understood her intrinsic value and believed her worthy of preservation," Engen continues as we pass beyond the once-busy reception – or the 'ticket office' – into the first-class cabins section.

"Just look at the woodwork, which is mahogany, and all the art! If this ship hadn't become a museum, it might have been chopped up or ... well, boats like this rarely last very long after being laid up", he reflects.

With limited funds and a workforce largely composed of volunteers, including Engen, the museum devoted a full quarter-century to the ship's refurbishment. It was a worthy investment, he believes, as his experiences as a captain along the Norwegian coast had ignited a passion for the history of the Coastal Express Route. His goal is to reveal to the world the significance of Norway's maritime heritage.

"Here," Engen gestures towards a spot in the ship's restaurant, "was the captain's table." His thoughts drift back to a 1988 voyage when he had newly assumed the captaincy of this very vessel.

"The tourism manager and I would stand here, extending a warm welcome to our Ladies’ Dance," he recalls. "With no designated space for dancing, we transformed the dining area into a makeshift dance floor. Music flowed from the wheelhouse, cascading into the salon via the overhead speaker system," Engen shares, his laughter tinting the memory.

He returns to the 'captain's table'. "I sat in a seat right here, the tourism manager by my side, chuckling. She found the 'Ladies' Dance' amusing because of my timid approach towards the ladies," he admits.

"Suddenly, I noticed, from the farthest corner of the room, a towering figure rising. Nearly two metres in height, a woman approached me. I remain unsure of her intentions, but she enveloped me in her embrace, taking my breath away. That encounter marked the end of my visits to the ladies' dance..."

We continue into the cafeteria, where second-class passengers were served buffet lunches.

"When I served aboard, distinctions of class faded into unity, but prior to that, there were up to three different classes on a ship, each with their respective price categories, says Sten Magne.

Though the cafeteria opened in 1956 when the Finnmarken launched, it still operates as a cafe for visitors of the Coastal Express Museum.

"Yonder lies the kitchenette where wait staff prepared the chefs' offerings before serving. Shall we take a closer look?"

As we make ourselves comfortable in the cafeteria, we're joined by Per Rydheim from Sortland — an enthusiast of the coastal route, an amateur historian, and a machine engineer at Havila Voyages.

The time to delve into history is upon us, and it's this dialogue with Sten Magne Engen and Per Rydheim that sets the foundation for all the articles in this series of coastal history stories. We ask them what they believe to be the quintessence of the Norwegian coastal route. Their immediate response hones in on the environs — a tableau of captivating scenery, midnight sun, glaciers, and islands.

"I started my career in international shipping, having travelled the globe by cruises and ferries, before finding myself in a temporary job on a local boat, owned by the fast ferry company Ofotens Steamship Company AS," Sten Magne reminisces.

The year was 1981. Fresh from his stint abroad, he had no intention of settling down in Norway. His plan was to resume his international cruise duties once his temporary job came to an end.

"International shipping was exciting, sure, but there wasn't much to look at. However, when I was sailing down the Norwegian coast and just hanging out by the railing, watching the tourists all excited and chattering about the things we were passing  – that was something else", Sten Magne shares.

With that in mind, he frequently reached for the microphone in the wheelhouse to offer commentary on the landscapes they sailed by.

"Such as when we went past Stad during a storm, I told the passengers to check out the storm, with its huge waves and the sea smashing against the rocks. They loved it. What might have scared them otherwise, they actually found really fascinating».

Yet the Coastal Route's attraction isn't merely in its tourism allure and picturesque landscape; its true vitality lies in knitting coastal communities together. The vessels plying the Coastal Route serve a critical societal role, ferrying goods, mail, and passengers from one harbour to the next, nurturing robust local communities in each harbour they serve. "That's the genuine 'coastal express route history," Sten Magne declares.

Imagine the Coastal Route ships following a steady course along the long Norwegian coast, with lots of little paths stretching out in all directions, reaching from the deepest inlets to the most remote islands. These paths are busy with smaller boats and ferries, carrying goods and people to and from the Coastal Express stops, visiting many local ports along the way.

"The activity along this network, extending across the entire Norwegian coast, tells the true history of the coastal route," Sten Magne opines.

Per Rydheim couldn't agree more.

"The Coastal Route's true charm for me lies in its creation and what it conveys," he adds:

"It's amazing how many lives are interwoven in this extensive coastal network, illustrating the significance of this route for local inhabitants. It's truly satisfying to know that we contribute positively in every harbour we visit, creating jobs, generating income, and strengthening relationships with coastal communities and businesses."

For 130 years, this has been the standard.

"When Hitler initiated 'Operation Barbarossa' – an inasion on the Soviet Union – in 1941, the Allies targeted anything that could potentially be German transport", explains Per Rydheim.

The vessels' white hulls, indicating passenger ships, offered little deterrent. The DS Vesteraalen was the first to be sunk, followed by the DS Richard With. A total of 14 coastal express vessels were torpedoed or otherwise sunk during the war, and many civilians lost their lives in the attacks.

One such individual was Sten Magne's uncle, Fritjof. He was only 15 years old when he served aboard the DS "Irma," a passenger and coastal express route ship. The young boy held no desire to be there, but in Germany-occupied Norway, he had no choice.

"My grandmother would shed her quiet tears, unaware of who sank the DS Irma. It was widely assumed to be the Germans. But now let me reveal…”, he says before before launching into a story from 1998:

Upon the ship's bridge of MS "Nordnorge", Captain Sten Magne Engen had welcomed guests. It had been his custom to personally greet each passenger before they disembarked. On that particular occasion, a group of Norwegians travelling from Harstad northward had the privilege of meeting their captain. Among them was an elderly man, a stranger to Sten Magne. The man met the captain's gaze, introduced himself, and then declared, "I was the one who sank the 'DS Irma'."

A chill coursed through Sten Magne's veins. Earlier that year, the Norwegian government had finally divulged the truth behind the torpedoing of the swift DS Irma during World War II: contrary to popular belief, the assault hadn't been German-led. Instead, it was carried out by two Norwegian torpedo boats that came from a mission in Shetland. They had been tasked with a mission near Rørvik but were hindered by severe weather, requiring a tow into Hustadvika and then onward to Averøya to conserve their onboard fuel. While sheltered there, the commanding officer declared that any passing vessel would be sunk.

Sten Magne stared, dumbfounded, at the man before him — the very man who had ordered the sinking of the Irma on February 13, 1944. Eventually, he recovered his voice. "But the sailor warned that it was the coastal express approaching," he asserted. The man simply shrugged in response, stating, "Yes, but once an order is given, it can't be retracted."

"It was quite a special encounter," Sten Magne recalls.

«Why do you think the man decided to divulge this to you after so many years?», we ask.

"He claimed he wished to travel around and express his contrition for his deeds, especially now the government had released all the information. However, it remains a mystery to me... He had been responsible for sinking several vessels, one of which was in Troms, where a significant number of civilians died".

Per Rydheim had been attentively following the account. Now, he ventures a question: "Did you present him with the fact that your own uncle was one of his victims?" "No, I did not. But looking back, I frequently wonder if he had been aware of my identity and whether that influenced his decision to approach and confess as he did. What other reason could there be? It was all rather uncanny".

Thankfully, Sten Magne's life at sea along the Norwegian coast has largely been filled with pleasant experiences and treasured memories – such as the time he officiated the wedding of a couple onboard, or when the ship was graced with a royal visit. Indeed, there have been several instances of children being born on the ship. However, the most cherished memories are those that blend into the quotidian fabric of life – the daily work, and interactions with people, both at sea and in harbour. 

These experiences have imparted countless positive impressions and have played a significant role in shaping him as an individual. Although he has long since retired from the maritime life, the thought of idling away his time doesn't cross his mind. How could it, when his life's passion project, the Coastal Express Museum, is bustling with activity in his own hometown?

Text by Havila Voyages/Josefine Spiro