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    A Visit with the Sámi

    "Nature is our culture," the Sámi

    people say, offering a profound lesson

    from the indigenous cultures of the north.

    On a sunlit August afternoon, we travel to the Nordkinn Peninsula, the northernmost point in Norway, to meet Ellinor Guttorm Utsi and her reindeer-herding family.

    Our destination is their summer camp, Davvi Siida, just minutes from the harbor at Kjøllefjord. This trip is as much about understanding the Sámi people as it is about traversing geographical distances.

    As we approach, it's not the traditional Sami lavvu or the sod-covered buildings that first catch our eye, but a small reindeer calf, playfully nuzzling Ellinor's colorful skirt.

    Named Č, the calf, with one antler hanging brokenly, instantly draws our group's empathy and curiosity.

    Ellinor, dressed in a vibrant, self-made Sámi costume, welcomes us with open arms. Inside her cozy sod-covered cabin, she initiates a dialogue about Sámi lifestyle and traditions.

    Modern aids

    Ellinor explains how modern aids like snowmobiles have simplified the arduous task of reindeer herding, yet the respect for traditional practices remains, such as seeking nature's permission before setting up a camp.

    As she shares her insights, Ellinor also introduces us to the Sámi's resourceful survival techniques. She shows us footwear treated with willow bark to make it waterproof and discusses their unique dietary practices, such as the softening of dried reindeer meat in coffee, which not only enhances the flavor but also illustrates a deep connection with the land.

    Ellinor’s narrative extends beyond mere survival to encompass a philosophy that intertwines respect for nature with everyday practices. Her stories of the reindeer tags, each unique to a family and essential for identifying their animals, underscore a system of stewardship that has sustained the Sámi for generations.

    Preserving the heritage through hardship

    She invites us to feel the materials used in Sámi crafts—the soft leathers, the intricately designed clothing, and even the runebomme, a traditional drum used by shamans to communicate with nature. These items aren't just artifacts; they are vibrant elements of a living culture that respects its environment.

    Through Ellinor's stories, we learn about the harsh measures once imposed on the Sámi, such as the burning of their sacred drums and the suppression of their language and customs. Yet, despite these adversities, the Sámi have preserved their heritage and now thrive, celebrating their culture through events like the Sami National Day and ensuring their language and traditions are passed on to younger generations.

    A sámi woman showing her culture

    As the afternoon wanes, we are offered a taste of dried reindeer meat, an invitation to partake in a quintessential Sámi experience.

    The rich, smoky flavor of the meat, combined with the stories shared around the hearth, creates a palpable connection to the land and the people who have thrived here for centuries.

    Our visit with the Sámi is not just an educational experience but a profound interaction with a culture that embodies resilience and a profound respect for nature.

    As we bid farewell, the spirit of the Sámi philosophy—that deep respect for the natural world and its bounties—stays with us, a lasting imprint of our journey to the top of Norway.

    This encounter reminds us that while the Sámi have adapted to the challenges of modern life, their cultural essence, deeply rooted in respect for and harmony with nature, continues to flourish.

    It's a poignant lesson on the importance of cultural preservation and the sustainable stewardship of natural resources.

     

    Additional excursion from Kjøllefjord Snowmobiling under the Polar sky (winter/spring)