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    A Taste of Vesterålen

    This may just be a small piece of Norway, but the impressions I now have of this stunning area, enriched by its culture and history, will stay with me forever.

    “At first, there was nothing here. Then, the herring appeared, so the fishermen followed, and we all know that where the fishing is good, society grows.” This is among the first information our tourist guide, Torstein Apenes, shares with us as we leave the harbour of Harstad this late-September morning. “Towards the end of the 19th century, this was a city of about 20,000 inhabitants,” the guide continues as our bus heads for our first stop on this popular excursion through the spectacular Vesterålen of the north. While Trondenes Church was our intended stop, we visited the 1958 Harstad Church, where the vibrant colors of autumn made the landscape look like stained glass.

    Tourist guide smiling for the camera

    Tourist guide Torstein Apenes.

    Harstad Church

    The Past Comes Alive at Trondenes Middelaldergård

    Not far from here lies Trondenes Middelaldergård, a reconstructed medieval farm, depicting life in Trondenes around the year 1200, approximately 200 years after the Viking Age. The farm structures are built authentically with medieval tools, showcasing traditional methods. Museum educator Høydal highlights the construction of an “årestue” based on archaeological evidence found in Trondenes. The building uses traditional insulation with bark and sod, reflecting how northern dwellers have kept warm for centuries.

    Cooking, eating, repairing, making clothes, sleeping… All parts of the indoor life took place in this single room:

    We are greeted by a museum educator, Mona Høydal.

    During summer, farm workers grow flax and nettle, noting, “The fibres are so strong you cannot tear a single straw with your bare hands.” While flax serves multiple purposes, from clothing to tools, this season’s yield was insufficient. As a solution, they turned to nettle, its fibers perfect for crafting tools but unsuitable for clothing due to discomfort. The museum encourages community engagement, inviting locals to pay entrance fees with nettles. These harvests contribute to winter tool production, fostering a deeper connection with historical practices.

    A New Addition: The Haltdalen Stave Church

    A remarkable new feature of the farm is an authentic replica of the Haltdalen Stave Church, added in June 2021. Inspired by historical accounts, the church mirrors the smallest of Norway’s remaining stave churches, connecting visitors with medieval spiritual life.

    “We built the church because the saga tells that King Øystein Magnusson – brother of Sigurd Jorsalfare – said that a church should be built at Trondenes”, says Høydal.

    The Journey Through Norway’s History

    The tour progresses with a visit to the Trondenes Historical Centre, where we explore exhibitions on the region’s history, including the Stone Age, Viking era, and WWII. A fascinating fact about Northern Norway’s WWII involvement is its strategic importance to Nazi Germany for securing iron ore from Narvik and controlling Bardufoss airport. This led to significant wartime battles, leaving lasting historical marks.

    As our journey continues, Torstein provides insights into Norway’s geography, climate, and business life. We glimpse modern agricultural practices, passing by salmon and strawberry farms. “The people who run this strawberry farm have become very rich,” notes Torstein. The midnight sun enhances the strawberries' sweetness, though picking remains a job for foreign seasonal workers, as “our youngsters are too lazy to do it,” says Torstein, blending humor with truth.

    A Delicious Finish

    Our adventure concludes with a ferry ride, offering samples of waffles with brown cheese and lefse. Here, I join a group of Swiss travelers, discovering their journey mirrors our own through Norway’s stunning landscapes.

    Upon reaching Sortland, “The Blue Town,” we board the ship, completing a journey filled with history, culture, and breathtaking scenery. This excursion showcases why it remains one of Havila Voyages’ most popular year-round. For anyone seeking an authentic taste of Norway, Vesterålen delivers an unforgettable experience.

    You can learn more about this excursion here.

    On the ferry with Verena, Monika, Manfred, and Pia.